Hard Fault

[autopilot]

Yes, it's a square chip with legs underneath it.
LPC4357

Preheat the PCB to 170-200 C.
Use hot air gun with 290-310C (depending on the type of gun, some guns have a lower temperature than displayed).
Use good high temperature flux like FluxPlus EFD 6-412-A.
DO NOT DESOLDER this IC (if you don't know how to reball).

[DaineseBiker]

Thank you for the Support!!!
I will give a Feedback ))))
Regards!!

[DaineseBiker]

First quick Peak, it is working again



Than not. I solidered again.

Now it is working.

Maybe 2-3 times and than everything is dark (LED is Not flashing anymore).

[DaineseBiker]

I measured everything, while the Board was working. (lED flashing)


No CAN connected and no Display installed. Only ground, KL15 and KL30 connected.

KL15_KL30.PNG

Power only on KL30 (w/o KL15) - all CAN-bus wires not connected, wait ~5-10sec after power up before measure:
1 - 0V - 0V
2 - 0V - 0V
3 - power voltage minus 0.7 (for 12V is a 11.3V) - 12V
4 - power voltage minus 0.7 (for 12V is a 11.3V) - 12V


Power on KL30 and KL15 (conditions is the same, CAN-bus fully disconnected):
1 - 3.3V - 3,3V (!)
2 - 0.6-0.7V - 0,63V
3 - power voltage minus 0.7 (for 12V is a 11.3V) - 12V
4 - 0V - 0V

Measurements at the pins of the 5V stabilizer (L5973D - U16):

Power only on KL30 (w/o KL15) - all CAN-bus wires not connected, wait ~5-10sec after power up before measure:
pin 1 - 0V - 0V
pin 2 - 0V - 0V
pin 3 - power voltage minus 0.7 (for 12V is a 11.3V) - 12V
pin 4 - 0V - 0V
pin 5 - 0V - 0V
pin 6 - 0V - 0V
pin 7 - 0V - 0V
pin 8 - power voltage minus 0.7 (for 12V is a 11.3V) - 12V


Power on KL30 and KL15 (conditions is the same, CAN-bus fully disconnected):
pin 1 - 5V - 4,88V
pin 2 - 2.2V - 0,85V
pin 3 - 0V - 0V
pin 4 - 1V - 0,9V
pin 5 - 1.25V - 1,23V
pin 6 - 3.3V - 3,3V
pin 7 - 0V - 0V
pin 8 - power voltage minus 0.7 (for 12V is a 11.3V) - 12V

R59Top - 2,78V

I Don‘t unterstand, why it is 1 or 2 times working and than… nothing.

https://youtube.com/shorts/kEouw1mCRQg?feature=share

I think, the Journey is over, if anybody has other tips, let me know

Thanks for the Support Autopilot.

Regards, Danone

[autopilot]

Note: (turning KL15 on (no effect) but 12V are attached to the board like in the first picture shown.)

Didn't understand it. On which picture?
If there is no ignition signal, then the 5V stabilizer can only turn on for a short time (Immediately after turning on the main power.). Did you wait 5-10 seconds before measuring?

I don't have an exact answer.
Regarding problems with the legs... There is a possibility that some legs were torn off along with the conductor on the board, and in this case, warming up will not help or will help only temporarily. It is also possible that the warm-up was not sufficient and some of the legs were not re-soldered. It is very difficult to control and difficult to verify.
Have you visually checked the elements on the board? Is everything soldered? Any short circuits, damages, cracks?
Are you sure there are no problems with the connected wires (power and ignition)? Is everything soldered well?

You can try updating the firmware. Install the latest version. It may be that under some conditions the firmware was damaged (I have not seen this yet, but everything happens for the first time). To do this, short the Input 3 in KEY section (or Input 2 - depends on the bootloader version) to ground before turning on the power (KL30). After turning on the power (KL30), the bootloader will start immediately. Disconnect Input 3 (or Input 2), turn on the ignition signal (KL15), connect the USB cable and update the firmware. Do not leave the USB cable connected if there is no power on the board. It is important.
But ... If there really are hardware problems, then the firmware update may break off without being completed. In this case, you will only be able to run the bootloader (as described above) and will not be able to run the main program (there will be a black screen or only an error message). And in order to update the firmware again, you will first need to solve hardware problems.

[DaineseBiker]

Oh no, sorry the note was from the old post, my Bad.

I will edit it

I Check it one More time

The Rest of the Board is Looking Good. Nothing is cooked cracked or something Else.

[DaineseBiker]

The 3rd Heat Session on the big Chip was done.


Now the mfa worked emediatly.

Couple kl30 on/off cycles worked.
Kl15 cycles with Full working Display, too.

Now the endurance run is in Progress. The Display is working now for 20minutes

I will keep you Updated

[DaineseBiker]

ok after over an hour the mfa shut down.

I think it is the connection of the big chip. Than I will desolder it (try it) and solder it "new" ...

I can't loose, I think^^

[autopilot]

ok after over an hour the mfa shut down.

Did you look at the temperature of the elements while it was running?
Did it stop working on its own or did you do some manipulations (did you move the board, pick it up while it was working, etc.)?

Than I will desolder it (try it) and solder it "new" ...

It is not easy. Because you need to correctly reball the chip. If you fail, this will be the last thing you can do with the board.

[DaineseBiker]

No it was completely still, while it Shut off. No hands on the mfa

While the first 30 Minutes i Moved it around and Twisted the Cables / Shaked the complete mfa.
It worked Fine.

Yes I think I will try First to use More Heat, so That the Chip is Moving a Little Bit.

The Last attempts of heating the Chip up, was a Little Bit tooo soft I think.

Desolder is a Bad idea without soldering Balls:)

Or I can find Someone who can do That.

Regards:)

[DaineseBiker]

I got somebody who reballed and resoldered the chip, but it has the same issue.

so i think the journey is over -.-

Thanks for the support autopilot.

Regards!

[autopilot]

Check with your postal service about the possibility of sending a parcel to Russia. Perhaps there is a possibility..